A second Season Cruising in Scotland – Bob and Lynne James
Week 1
Bob and Lynne left Nirvana in Stornoway inner harbour over the winter. This was a great choice. Well sheltered and they check all the boats daily. We took out a years berthing, being a lot cheaper than monthly or seasonal. I would recommend it as an overwinter stop since you can then have a second season in the Scottish Isles… something not to be missed having struggled all the way up here.
The best laid plans of mice and men gain oft alley… something burns says, and he should know. We waited a week for the Northerly F5-6 winds to stop or ease so we could head up to the Orkneys, but it was not to be. Taking advantage of a relative lull, (F5 easterlies) we bade a fond farewell to our friends in Stornoway and headed south east to Loch Ewe. These of you who know your Gardens will be aware that there are some amazing sub tropical gardens at the head of the Loch, Inverewe.
So in order to appease the crew, who had hoped to see the Orkneys, but did not want to motor against the wind around Cape Wrath, we are now anchored only Yards from the famous gardens.I had hoped for a gentle reintroduction to sailing for our first passage, but the first 4 hours were bouncy and wet with spray, though not a cloud in the sky. After which the wind eased and we ended motor sailing the last 10 miles into the Loch. It is a real pleasure to swing gently at anchor in warm sun admiring the most amazing mountains and hills.
The best laid plans of mice and men gain oft alley… something burns says, and he should know. We waited a week for the Northerly F5-6 winds to stop or ease so we could head up to the Orkneys, but it was not to be. Taking advantage of a relative lull, (F5 easterlies) we bade a fond farewell to our friends in Stornoway and headed south east to Loch Ewe. These of you who know your Gardens will be aware that there are some amazing sub tropical gardens at the head of the Loch, Inverewe.
So in order to appease the crew, who had hoped to see the Orkneys, but did not want to motor against the wind around Cape Wrath, we are now anchored only Yards from the famous gardens.I had hoped for a gentle reintroduction to sailing for our first passage, but the first 4 hours were bouncy and wet with spray, though not a cloud in the sky. After which the wind eased and we ended motor sailing the last 10 miles into the Loch. It is a real pleasure to swing gently at anchor in warm sun admiring the most amazing mountains and hills.
Looking forward to Skye and the Small isles next week.
Week 2
After a lovely day at anchor in Loch Ewe, and a magical day wandering around the sub tropical gardens at Inverewe we set off to Skye and the inner sound. Sun light winds and the gentle throb of the engine accompanied us as we strolled the 30 miles to Acarsaid Mhor on Rhonda, a completely sheltered anchorage offering showers and a small shop according to the latest pilot guide. Alas no facilities since Covid and not likely to be reinstated. At least we managed a bracing 2 mile walk up the hill to view whence we had come and a stroll back.
Only 10 mile the next day to Portree lovely sun and light following winds.
Stayed overnight and Sunday headed off to Kyle of Loch Alsh. The forecast was for northerlies 3-4, hopefully pushing us easily to The Kyle of Loch Alsh. The 24 mile trip should only take 5 hours in our slow cruiser, and that on a good day. Started rally and windy, steadied by 1/2 Genoa to keep the head down wind, and scooting along at 6 knots.
As we crossed out from the south of Rassay the wind kicked in.
Fortunately, our wind speed indicator does not work! We spent an interesting hour rolling and twisting at 7 knots under 1/3 Genoa between 2m white topped waves driven by the northerly wind funnelling between the mainland and Skye, before scooting under the Skye bridge into magical calm.
Lynne said I am never to ask her to do that again!
Inverie sunset well after 10pm!
Next day, rested and calm , tidal calculations carefully made, we threaded our way through Kyle Rhea, the narrow passage between sky and mainland famed for rapid currents and eddies. No excitement here, calm ride with light winds and stopped in Loch Nevis and a small hamlet Inverie, which has the most isolated Pub in the UK! Only accessible by boat!
Lovely pub run by the local community, lots of moorings and you have to book ahead! Quiet sunset and rocked gently to sleep.
Following day to Tobermory,passing by the inner Hebrides. We had cycled around the inner isles decades ago when the children were small, it was lovely to see them floating in a calm sea and blue sky, not enough wind to sail in. Around Ardnamurchan point, said to be rough but today only a gently swell and into one of scotlands most photographed and filmed Towns.
We had been plagued by engine start problems, air getting into the injector pump, and a failure of the engine to start meant we missed our planned whisky tour for the no Nean organic whisky distillery.
If you are up this way I would recommend Loch Aline just off the sound of mull. Friendly little marina, if one calls a set of pontoons a marina. Knowledgable and friendly harbourmaster and the best showers on the west coast of Scotland! Great shops only 20 mins walk away and two excellent eateries as well as two local Pub cum-social clubs. Not good in a SW gale, so back to Tobormory and some more engine trouble shooting.
On the plus side we stayed in Tobermory and avoided the south westerly gale! And fixed the engine fuel injector pump problem.
It strikes me that you need to be handy with your electrics and mechanics if you are sailing an elderly vessel in these parts. The nearest deisil mechanic is in fort William!
Today, Sunday we are rocking on the sheltered pontoon on watching the hail and showers of a sw gale sweep past, digesting the remnants of a whisky tour
Next week up to Fort William and the Caledonian Canal.
