A second Season Cruising in Scotland – Bob and Lynne James
Week 1
Bob and Lynne left Nirvana in Stornoway inner harbour over the winter. This was a great choice. Well sheltered and they check all the boats daily. We took out a years berthing, being a lot cheaper than monthly or seasonal. I would recommend it as an overwinter stop since you can then have a second season in the Scottish Isles… something not to be missed having struggled all the way up here.
The best laid plans of mice and men gain oft alley… something burns says, and he should know. We waited a week for the Northerly F5-6 winds to stop or ease so we could head up to the Orkneys, but it was not to be. Taking advantage of a relative lull, (F5 easterlies) we bade a fond farewell to our friends in Stornoway and headed south east to Loch Ewe. These of you who know your Gardens will be aware that there are some amazing sub tropical gardens at the head of the Loch, Inverewe.
So in order to appease the crew, who had hoped to see the Orkneys, but did not want to motor against the wind around Cape Wrath, we are now anchored only Yards from the famous gardens.I had hoped for a gentle reintroduction to sailing for our first passage, but the first 4 hours were bouncy and wet with spray, though not a cloud in the sky. After which the wind eased and we ended motor sailing the last 10 miles into the Loch. It is a real pleasure to swing gently at anchor in warm sun admiring the most amazing mountains and hills.Looking forward to Skye and the Small isles next week.
The best laid plans of mice and men gain oft alley… something burns says, and he should know. We waited a week for the Northerly F5-6 winds to stop or ease so we could head up to the Orkneys, but it was not to be. Taking advantage of a relative lull, (F5 easterlies) we bade a fond farewell to our friends in Stornoway and headed south east to Loch Ewe. These of you who know your Gardens will be aware that there are some amazing sub tropical gardens at the head of the Loch, Inverewe.
So in order to appease the crew, who had hoped to see the Orkneys, but did not want to motor against the wind around Cape Wrath, we are now anchored only Yards from the famous gardens.I had hoped for a gentle reintroduction to sailing for our first passage, but the first 4 hours were bouncy and wet with spray, though not a cloud in the sky. After which the wind eased and we ended motor sailing the last 10 miles into the Loch. It is a real pleasure to swing gently at anchor in warm sun admiring the most amazing mountains and hills.Looking forward to Skye and the Small isles next week.
Week 2
After a lovely day at anchor in Loch Ewe, and a magical day wandering around the sub tropical gardens at Inverewe we set off to Skye and the inner sound. Sun light winds and the gentle throb of the engine accompanied us as we strolled the 30 miles to Acarsaid Mhor on Rhonda, a completely sheltered anchorage offering showers and a small shop according to the latest pilot guide. Alas no facilities since Covid and not likely to be reinstated. At least we managed a bracing 2 mile walk up the hill to view whence we had come and a stroll back.
Only 10 mile the next day to Portree lovely sun and light following winds.
Stayed overnight and Sunday headed off to Kyle of Loch Alsh. The forecast was for northerlies 3-4, hopefully pushing us easily to The Kyle of Loch Alsh. The 24 mile trip should only take 5 hours in our slow cruiser, and that on a good day. Started rally and windy, steadied by 1/2 Genoa to keep the head down wind, and scooting along at 6 knots.
As we crossed out from the south of Rassay the wind kicked in.
Fortunately, our wind speed indicator does not work! We spent an interesting hour rolling and twisting at 7 knots under 1/3 Genoa between 2m white topped waves driven by the northerly wind funnelling between the mainland and Skye, before scooting under the Skye bridge into magical calm.
Lynne said I am never to ask her to do that again!
Inverie sunset well after 10pm!
Next day, rested and calm , tidal calculations carefully made, we threaded our way through Kyle Rhea, the narrow passage between sky and mainland famed for rapid currents and eddies. No excitement here, calm ride with light winds and stopped in Loch Nevis and a small hamlet Inverie, which has the most isolated Pub in the UK! Only accessible by boat!
Lovely pub run by the local community, lots of moorings and you have to book ahead! Quiet sunset and rocked gently to sleep.
Following day to Tobermory,passing by the inner Hebrides. We had cycled around the inner isles decades ago when the children were small, it was lovely to see them floating in a calm sea and blue sky, not enough wind to sail in. Around Ardnamurchan point, said to be rough but today only a gently swell and into one of scotlands most photographed and filmed Towns.
We had been plagued by engine start problems, air getting into the injector pump, and a failure of the engine to start meant we missed our planned whisky tour for the no Nean organic whisky distillery.
If you are up this way I would recommend Loch Aline just off the sound of mull. Friendly little marina, if one calls a set of pontoons a marina. Knowledgable and friendly harbourmaster and the best showers on the west coast of Scotland! Great shops only 20 mins walk away and two excellent eateries as well as two local Pub cum-social clubs. Not good in a SW gale, so back to Tobormory and some more engine trouble shooting.
On the plus side we stayed in Tobermory and avoided the south westerly gale! And fixed the engine fuel injector pump problem.
It strikes me that you need to be handy with your electrics and mechanics if you are sailing an elderly vessel in these parts. The nearest deisil mechanic is in fort William!
Today, Sunday we are rocking on the sheltered pontoon on watching the hail and showers of a sw gale sweep past, digesting the remnants of a whisky tour
Next week up to Fort William and the Caledonian Canal.
Week 3
Early June weather in the west of Scotland was quite atypical. A series of low pressure systems bringing rain and strong winds and a few days of respite between.
Taking advantage of a lull we set off from Dunstaffnage heading up Loch Linnhe towards Fort William and the Caledonian Canal.
25 miles of running , mountains to right and left and No Rain. Having lived in these parts in years gone by the scenery brought back many happy memories.
There now is a “marina” at Corpach at the head of the Loch only 100m from the canal entrance, and there we stopped waiting for our crew. I say Marina, but really I mean some heavy floating pontoons with lighter pontoons in their lee. A lovely cafe ashore and friendly harbour master who had been looking after the fridge and eberspacher heater I had sent ahead.
Spent 1 day refitting new fridge and heater. Such a relief to have heat and dry again, especially as our crew would likely mutiny if there was no heating.
The next 3 days had us pinned to the pontoon by 25kt winds gusting 38 at times. The crew (our daughter Claire and Husband Chris) were not amused, having left the sunny warmth of Virginia USA for cold wet windy Scotland.
There is a train station only 50m from the pontoon, so we took a trip to Mallaig along the world famous “Harry Potter” viaduct. It was more windy in Mallaig.
When the wind died we set off for the canal.
5 days of flat water. Lots of Locks, heaving on ropes easing ropes. The canal staff were always helpful and friendly. I would recommend the trip, can be done with a crew of 2 but so much easier with 3 or 4.
Highlight was the run down Loch Ness, goosewinged. 22 miles of sailing not needing to touch rope or brace. A pleasant 4 Kt stroll in the sun.
We said good bye to our crew in Inverness Marina. A place which tests your manouvering skills almost as much as a tight sea lock.
Now we had a 36 hour weather window to get to Peterhead or Fraserburgh before the strong southerlies made Rattay head too uncomfortable to pass on Thursday.
A lot of the small harbours on the North Aberdeenshire coast are restricted By tide. However the larger commercial harbours can accommodate the occasional Yacht. So late on Tuesday we glided into Buckie, to tie up at the far end of a large commercial wind farm harbour, against the pilot boat. The very friendly harbour master explained that there was too much paperwork involved so best to leave early and no need to pay!
Off at 5.50 am to catch the wind and tide to Fraserburgh and tied up snugly against a resting fishing vessel by Lunchtime.
Lots to do in Fraserburgh as we wait out the winds, watching the white topped waves over towards rattay head.
Great food at the seafarers mission. Swimming and sauna at the leisure centre. Amazing Lighthouse museum with fantastic views from the top.
Meanwhile we pray for lighter more favourable wind direction.
Taking advantage of a lull we set off from Dunstaffnage heading up Loch Linnhe towards Fort William and the Caledonian Canal.
25 miles of running , mountains to right and left and No Rain. Having lived in these parts in years gone by the scenery brought back many happy memories.
There now is a “marina” at Corpach at the head of the Loch only 100m from the canal entrance, and there we stopped waiting for our crew. I say Marina, but really I mean some heavy floating pontoons with lighter pontoons in their lee. A lovely cafe ashore and friendly harbour master who had been looking after the fridge and eberspacher heater I had sent ahead.
Spent 1 day refitting new fridge and heater. Such a relief to have heat and dry again, especially as our crew would likely mutiny if there was no heating.
The next 3 days had us pinned to the pontoon by 25kt winds gusting 38 at times. The crew (our daughter Claire and Husband Chris) were not amused, having left the sunny warmth of Virginia USA for cold wet windy Scotland.
There is a train station only 50m from the pontoon, so we took a trip to Mallaig along the world famous “Harry Potter” viaduct. It was more windy in Mallaig.
When the wind died we set off for the canal.
5 days of flat water. Lots of Locks, heaving on ropes easing ropes. The canal staff were always helpful and friendly. I would recommend the trip, can be done with a crew of 2 but so much easier with 3 or 4.
Highlight was the run down Loch Ness, goosewinged. 22 miles of sailing not needing to touch rope or brace. A pleasant 4 Kt stroll in the sun.
We said good bye to our crew in Inverness Marina. A place which tests your manouvering skills almost as much as a tight sea lock.
Now we had a 36 hour weather window to get to Peterhead or Fraserburgh before the strong southerlies made Rattay head too uncomfortable to pass on Thursday.
A lot of the small harbours on the North Aberdeenshire coast are restricted By tide. However the larger commercial harbours can accommodate the occasional Yacht. So late on Tuesday we glided into Buckie, to tie up at the far end of a large commercial wind farm harbour, against the pilot boat. The very friendly harbour master explained that there was too much paperwork involved so best to leave early and no need to pay!
Off at 5.50 am to catch the wind and tide to Fraserburgh and tied up snugly against a resting fishing vessel by Lunchtime.
Lots to do in Fraserburgh as we wait out the winds, watching the white topped waves over towards rattay head.
Great food at the seafarers mission. Swimming and sauna at the leisure centre. Amazing Lighthouse museum with fantastic views from the top.
Meanwhile we pray for lighter more favourable wind direction.
Final Chapter
After 6 weeks away from home we were starting to get worried about the state of our garden. The weather did not look like it would settle into a comfortable pattern. Lots of strong southerly winds to fight against.
We left Fraserburgh for Peterhead on 14th June. A large commercial harbour, with a fleet of sail ability craft being expertly woven around us as we approached. Much relief to be out of the swell and headwind.
For those who have not been Peterhead is a modest pontoon marina tucked inside a much larger commercial harbour. Very friendly reception, but the harbour master says “there is not much to do in Peterhead. Good facility’s for clothes washing showering, but little else unless you fancy a long walk into town”.
Next morning we headed down the coast to Arbroath. Still windy, often on the nose. Arbroath has a lock gate, so one must be in before it shuts. Timing the flood tide was critical and we just made it in in time. Great staff to meet on the visitor pontoon as you arrive, and plenty of depth.
Sadly Arbroath town seems to be struggling, lots of closed shops. The harbour has the best visitor facilities room, as well as showers it has a TV room and a kitchen which includes a real toaster. It is amazing how much one misses proper toast!
Sadly Arbroath town seems to be struggling, lots of closed shops. The harbour has the best visitor facilities room, as well as showers it has a TV room and a kitchen which includes a real toaster. It is amazing how much one misses proper toast!
The lock opening times are said to be 0715, in fact we awoke at 06.15 to the sound of the lock gates opening, so up and away to get the most of the flood tide down the coast leaving Scotland behind and heading for Amble Northumberland 85 miles away.
We are not great ones for long legs at sea, 40-50 is more the mark, but we could almost smell home and were desperate to get there.
Fine wind close hauled in a lumpy sea past hundreds of freshly planted wind machines, as the wind died we ghosted past Lindisfarne and the Farne Islands followed by a glorious sunset and a long dusk, before threading our way in darkness past the shallows into Amble on a rising tide.
Amble must be the most expensive stop of the trip hour for hour. We had rung ahead and a welcome pack awaited on the visitor pontoon as promised. Too tired to do more than visit the facilities and bed.
Fine wind close hauled in a lumpy sea past hundreds of freshly planted wind machines, as the wind died we ghosted past Lindisfarne and the Farne Islands followed by a glorious sunset and a long dusk, before threading our way in darkness past the shallows into Amble on a rising tide.
Amble must be the most expensive stop of the trip hour for hour. We had rung ahead and a welcome pack awaited on the visitor pontoon as promised. Too tired to do more than visit the facilities and bed.
Up at 04.30 to catch the ebb out while there was still sufficient water. This is where the 0.8m draft of a southerly 105 really helps!
Wind was forecast to pick up to F6 southerly by late afternoon, so we were desperate to get to Whitby 58 miles away before 4pm. The first 28 miles went like a dream. The strong headwind kicked in early and we fought our way at 2 knots against a heavy chop to Whitby, barely speeding up as the tide turned to flood but the wind on tide increased the chop.
Wind was forecast to pick up to F6 southerly by late afternoon, so we were desperate to get to Whitby 58 miles away before 4pm. The first 28 miles went like a dream. The strong headwind kicked in early and we fought our way at 2 knots against a heavy chop to Whitby, barely speeding up as the tide turned to flood but the wind on tide increased the chop.
After a challenging corkscrew of a ride into Whitby harbour we had missed the timing to get into the marina, caught a rope around our bow thruster, and spent an exhausted night tied to the visitor pontoon. This pontoon is more akin to a barely floating series of pallets under a towering harbour wooden piling wall, whose accent is by a rusty ladder over 5 m high.
We dried out the next day in the outer harbour, removed the offending rope, and so that the beaching looked more deliberate, washed the hull and cleaned off what little fouling there was. I must say after 10 years the copper coat is still working well.
Despite this hiatus Whitby was a very pleasant place to stay, great ice cream, superb views from the Abbey. A chance to meet Yorkshire friends and take a trip, by land, to Staithes. This is another drying harbour in a picturesque village with great eateries and a close up view of a kittywake colony on the cliffs only 100m away. Not for the deep keel yacht.
At last we had a tight weather window to get home. Rather that stay overnight at anchor by spurn head in a westerly wind, we would leave to arrive at spurn head 1 hour before the ebb ends, catch the ebb out of the Humber, and the flood past the Lincolnshire coast, through race bank and along the north Norfolk coast, gaining 90 mins of additional flood as we went, helped by the forecast SW/W F5 winds on the starboard quarter. This made for a rapid (for us) 7knts and corkscrew ride until as we approached dusk the lobster/crab pot markers came out in abundance, the sun set and the sea calmed down to a viscid treacle and we motored on into the ebbing tide.
The northern sky never darkened fully, the stars came out and we hopped from green light to red light tardily along the coast, unable to see where the next pot markers may be.
24 hours int to the trip and the sun rises, tiredness fades the wind picks up as promised and the ebb slackens. Such a relief to be moving at a proper speed again.
By 6 am the food starts, we are just approaching Lowestoft, and 8 yachts all pop out of the harbour and head south, clearly taking the opportunity to get the flood down the coast.
A fresh SW breeze whisks us homeward on the flooding tide, Blue sky and sun cheer us and keep tiredness at bay.
Familiar sights, Southwold, Sizewell, Aldeburgh, Orford and at last the cranes at Felixstowe dock.
Familiar sights, Southwold, Sizewell, Aldeburgh, Orford and at last the cranes at Felixstowe dock.
The Deben is as welcoming as ever, nice cross tide, and the rapid whoosh past the sailing club to finally rest at our mooring. So pleased to be home at last.
