Part 1
Sealarc has made it to the Baltic and the first crew change at Kiel after 12 days and 520 miles. The weather has been challenging albeit with strong mainly following winds. We’ve had to change our plans in that we have only been in 3 ports on the days we had planned to (and 2 of those were the starting and finishing ports!)
The crew of John, Ian, Paul & Tim set off a day early to suit the weather and decided to sail direct to Den Helder from the Deben. We had a good crossing with a few ships to avoid and to keep us on our toes. Arriving at the Den Helder Navy YC at midday, we had the immigration boys come to our boat within a couple of hours and our passports stamped there and then – very easy.
The sail along the Dutch and Fresian Islands needed more careful planning to make good progress east as we had to wait for the strong winds to pass through. We stopped in Vlieland (2days), Borkum (1day – poor harbour), Norderney (2days) and then into the Elbe at Cuxhaven. From there it was a fast sail in the rain with the tide to Brunsbuttle where we locked into the Kiel Canal. The weather then improved for the passage 2/3 way along the canal to Rendsburg where we stopped for a night before continuing on to Kiel the next day. By now we were 2 days ahead of the scheduled crew change, so it was decided to do an excursion north into Denmark and visit Sonderborg. Tim had sailed his OK in the worlds there so was keen to revisit the place. With favourable winds on both days there and back we had some champagne sailing, the second day in sunshine so a lovely way for the first crew to finish.
On the handover day in Kiel I had time to change a battery that had overheated and John D brought out a new heads hatch which had been swiped off when I pre-rigged a preventer before gybing – hey ho.
When JD arrived the wind switched around to the east. The first day we made some useful progress east to Heiligenhafen. However a creep along the sheltered shore was ruined by an enforced 15 ml diversion around a firing range which took us out into the stronger winds and waves. We are now delayed here a day, but will move on east tomorrow to pick up Nigel in Klinthorne DK rather than Ystad SE as planned.
Part 2
SEALARC – Deben to Baltic
Sealarc has made it to Stockholm for the next crew change. The weather has remained challenging with strong winds so we’ve had to adjust our plans accordingly which has necessitated some early starts. We didn’t reach our rendezvous with Nigel at Ystad, so he came to join us at Klinthome DK, but then we did a long day to Simrishamn SE thereby reclaiming our lost spare day. A windy arrival and a shallow harbour weren’t the best combination, but we were directed by other helpful sailors mainly English and the most red ensigns we’ve seen so far.
The next port was due to be Utklippan which is a rock island with a small harbour blasted out of it originally intended as a fishing boat refuge. I’ve been there before, but with a brisk following wind it was untenable, so instead we ran into the archipelago near Karlskrona and dropped the hook. The wind remained strong for a lively sail up to Kalmar with it’s lovely castle and harbour. From there it was another very early start to beat the wind heading us and the rain, but we made it to a lovely natural harbour with an SXK mooring buoy for which we have permit to use (as issued by CA).
We enjoyed mid-summer eve at the top of Oland island with the Swedes wearing their floral crowns and maypole celebrations. From there it was a fast sail across to Visby on Gotland where JD departed and Keith & Lesley arrived. Our passports were checked again there ahead of a major political conference the following week. We had intended staying a day, but the forecast dictated that we move straight back to the mainland the next day which wasn’t an entirely welcome decision. A 55 ml passage got us to Harstena island in the outer archipelago before the rain and strong winds arrived.
The route north through the archipelago is well buoyed and in sheltered water, such that in a few days we were on Orno island where we met up with my son Andrew and Gabbi (visiting from NZ) who had chartered a small yacht to sail in company with us for a few days. We enjoyed sailing with them and found some lovely natural harbours where the bow is tied to a rock with a stern anchor out. For me this is what Baltic archipelago sailing is all about, and worth the 1k mls to get here.
After A & G departed, our next stop was at the Royal Sweden YC marina which was very nice and somewhat upmarket being a only short hop from Stockholm which was reached the next day through the Baggens Staket which is a very narrow (one way) waterway used by ferries as well as all other pleasure craft.
We are now at the Stockholm marina outside the Vasa (Sweden’s Mary Rose) museum. Nigel, Keith & Lesley depart today and Max, Pam and Mike take their places for more archipelago sailing before we start to head back south.
Part 3 – Last chapter
Sealarc departed Stockholm and has now arrived in Copenhagen having had three crew changes along the way. The weather has gradually been improving, but has ranged between no wind, strong wind, rain and shine.
In Stockholm Max, Pam and Mike joined me and after meeting up with Mike’s friend Ian in the Vasa marina we headed out into the archipelago; the first stop was one of Mike’s favourite natural harbours where we tied bow to a rock with a stern anchor out, nicely sheltered behind pine trees from the 35+ kt gusts that blew overhead throughout the afternoon – we’re still finding pine needles on board!
We enjoyed visiting different islands in the archipelago as we made our way to Nynashamn where Pam and Mike departed and Gerald joined myself and Max as we started to make progress back south towards the overwintering destination in Denmark. Initially we were following the well buoyed intricate channels through the archipelago visiting natural harbours, tied up to rocks, but also some town marinas.
We visited Vasterik for two nights sheltering from strong winds and rain, but this happily coincided with a music festival set in the castle ruins just across the water. Then we headed out of the archipelago across to Oland island and the town of Borgholm with its fine castle-on-the-hill and the summer residence of the Swedish Royal family. He just missed the Princess’s birthday celebrations that are held on 14 July. But the next day we had a wonderful sail with 15kt winds on a beam reach with flat sheltered water into Kalmar with its own even more impressive castle. From there a 60 ml day took us south to Karlskrona where the Swedish Navy has long been based due to it being ice free in the winter. A nice military town to explore and convenient train connections for the crew change; Max and Gerald departing and Guy and Rosemary arriving.
We exited Karlskrona through our first swing bridge of the cruise and then had to motor to get to the island of Hano and fortunately getting into the smaller than expected harbour just before the rain set in. It’s been sunny since with a good sail to Simrishamn and motoring in light winds to Ystad (of Wallander fame) – both lovely towns with beautifully restored buildings. It has remained sunny and very light winds for our passage into Copenhagen taking the short cut through the Fasterbo canal (no locks – one bridge, which avoids going around extensive shallows).
Having reached Copenhagen for the last crew change, I will now sign off.
The final week will be with my daughter Louise, Matthew, Percy and Ellen as we make our way to Augustenborg where I will leave Sealarc and return next year for more sailing adventures.
